I’ve been trying to get some work done this weekend on repotting. Since I did most of my repotting early last fall, I went ahead and just repotted anything that might have show potential. The Illinois state show is just 9 weeks away now, so in the scheme of things, I’m way behind schedule. But, I’m still adding new things onto wicks so that I can better gauge how well they can do for me. I’m running out of room to baby along those disappointing plants that never quite live up to the hype. Some plants just won’t like me or my conditions. I did mention a long time ago that I had acquired more petrocosmeas. I love their fuzzy leaves and unique growing habit. So I had a couple different pets that needed repotting. For the first time ever, I am putting them on wicks. I know many people wick them, but I just never have. And maybe that's why they didn't do so well. For my experiment, I put p. momo and p. ‘Keystone’s Harvest Moon’ on wicks, and below are their mug shots. I want to watch them and see how they do. I also wanted to mention that recently I bought a new light fixture. It was a bargain, so I figured it was a good time to experiment. It is a wide fixture that holds 4 T-5 bulbs. Be fully aware that 4 T-5 bulbs would probably fry African violets. So, I only put two bulbs into the fixture and have it about 10 inches above the plants. I started with a couple trays filled with mostly duplicates, both as mama leaves and babies. It’s been interesting. The light is a lot more intense than I’m accustomed to, but the plants have responded actually better than I thought they would. Two things are absolutely sure – they have all required much more water than usual, and the foliage is much darker and more intense. They are drying out almost every other day whereas the other plants typically get watered once a week. But as it relates to their growth, plants with darker foliage have tolerated the T-5 light better, but all of them have been anxious or quick to bloom. For example, I have two babies of Ness’ Sheer Peach. Here they are, side by side: The one on the left above was on the T-5 shelf and the other one was on my regular shelf with T-12’s. The plantlet that received T-5 light has grown much more compact and with much darker foliage. Interestingly, the blooms are really dark as well. The photos are a little washed out, but the difference in darkness is very striking. And the plants have just grown much differently. Compared to the other NSP, the T-5 plant almost seems like a sport. What are your thoughts? Is it a sport? Or does (and can) light intensity actually change the original genetics of a cultivar, or would the plant on the left eventually revert to resemble the one on the right if the lighting was the same?
11 Comments
Jared
6/17/2013 04:06:02 pm
Any updates on your plants under the t5 bulbs? You are using the 28 watt bulbs and not the high output 54 watt bulbs right?
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6/18/2013 12:30:23 am
Hi Jared, and thanks for reading and commenting. Up until you asked, I had no idea there were 2 different wattage t-5's. I simply used the bulbs that were supplied with the fixture. They are indeed the 54 watt bulbs. The fixture is about 9 inches from the tops of most of the plants, and all the plants on that shelf are minis. I never ran all four bulbs. At first, I used only two bulbs in the fixture and experienced the typical things associated with intense light: the plants darkened in foliage color, the petioles shortened, the plants bloomed and suckered more and also seemed to grow faster. I never experienced the curling down of leaves that I expected. While possibly not related, I also had a curious number of sports from leaves I had started on that shelf. Within a few months, many of the plants on the shelf were not looking very good. Many had begun to pale and some lost their crowns for no other apparent reason. About a month ago, I removed all but one bulb in the fixture, hoping for an improvement. I also reduced the hours the light is on. It hasn't helped terribly much, and I have actually just this week removed an entire tray of plants from the shelf. My final thought on it is that this type of fixture is great for seed starting, growing on seedlings, hydroculture (for which it was intended anyway) and whatnot, but not for maintaining violets. Perhaps the 28 watt bulbs would do better, but the 54 is obviously not suited to growing violets unless there was at least a foot between plant and bulb. I'll probably continue to use it for starting leaves, but overall it's been a disappointment.
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Jared
6/18/2013 01:27:50 pm
I haven't done all the research but I think that 40 watt T12 ~ 32 watt T8 ~ 28 watt T5 in regard to lumens output. Putting the violets under two 54 watt T5HO (High Output) bulbs is like putting them under four 40 watt T12s. It may be best to switch out your remaining T5HO for two 28 watt T5s instead if you want to keep on using the fixture for violets. 6/19/2013 04:31:19 am
Yep, you're right about the lights, and you're certainly more knowledgeable about the subject than I am. I'm down to one bulb in the fixture, and it's just not really appropriate for the violets. I will probably try the lower wattage bulbs if I can find them locally. Otherwise, it'll be another $10 shoplight, which really do work just fine.
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Jared
6/19/2013 01:34:44 pm
Thanks for the update Amy. I've never grown petrocosmeas before so I can't offer any advice, but I hope that you'll figure out how to get them to thrive. I've heard that they don't need as much light and they prefer cooler temperatures. Have you tried starting new plants from leaf cuttings? Most people report having better success with the babies from leaves grown in their conditions at least when it comes to violets. Any chance that petrocosmea leaves will be offered on your Specials/Odds page in the future? 6/20/2013 11:54:22 pm
You're right about their needs, Jared. Keeping the plant room cool in summer is tricky for me. The tray of plants in the photo contains plants I started from leaves. They take a little longer than violets to produce sizable plants, but it's just as easy as with the violets. And yes, I could probably offer some leaves of the pets since most of them are large enough now. Are you interested in trying some?
Jared
6/21/2013 11:23:28 am
I would love to try some, but I don't want to expand my collection until after I move in October. I've never ordered leaves before, but I've been practicing with leaves from my Optimara plants that I have right now. I've had a lot of success, but I know that Optimara varieties are bred for production so the real test will be propagating cultivars that are bred for show purposes, not for the mass market. I just bought my first pack of 3 oz. clear blue Solo cups (the same ones that Andrea Worrell uses) that I will be moving my plantlets into. The rest of the cups will be waiting for my first leaf order, which will be from you, if I can relocate before you close for winter.
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6/24/2013 12:10:02 am
Aw, that is nice, Jared. And I'd be pleased to help you get started. Please remind me that you'd like to try some petrocosmea leaves when (and if) you decide to order this year. I think you are most certainly on the right track with your plants. I use the solid white solo cups, but Andrea likes the clear ones so she can see the roots (a good idea!) On the topic of show vs. mass market plants, you may be onto something there, but in general, the only real difference I've found is their need for a bit more light. Optimaras are bred in greenhouses and designed to thrive in lower light situations, whereas many of the other hybrids are grown and created in synthetic light environments (under fluorescent bulbs on plant stands.) You might keep in mind that there are still hybridizers who grow in greenhouses, so their hybrids may do better for you. I would recommend plants hybridized by Lyndon Lyon, since I have found that theirs will do better in lower light situations. In any case, let me know when you move, and I'll put together a box for you! :-)
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Jared
6/24/2013 10:22:39 pm
That theory about Optimara plants is just something I came up with after watching episode 5 of the All About African Violets podcast. In that episode, Annie pointed out that out of an assorted bunch of leaves, the first 3 leaves that produced babies were Optimara cultivars. I have noticed though that my Optimaras grew much nicer (but also much slower with nearly no blooms) when they had only natural light, probably because it's more similar to a greenhouse. My plants are currently suffering from too much light right now under fluorescents haha, but I'm working on getting them to loosen up their crowns by cutting their hours. I can tell it's working, but the full effect will take time. 6/24/2013 10:49:58 pm
Thank you, Jared. I've enjoyed our discussion. And I definitely agree that it will take some time for your light changes to manifest in the plants. Early on, I realized that leaves (instead of plants) were the way to go for me; unlike plants, the babies from leaves grew fast with no real acclimation problems since they were started in my conditions from the start. I don't grow too many Optimaras since they generally prefer less light than I offer, but there are a few that have stood the test of time at my house. Good luck with your growing!!
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Jared
6/27/2013 03:20:41 am
I've enjoyed this discussion too Amy! I haven't fully grown any leaf babies, but the suckers I've grown look much nicer than my original plants for sure. I already made the list of the (19) leaves that I'm going order so I'll send it to you when the time is right. Good luck to you as well!
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